104k 2007 4.6L Spark Plug Removal

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A1cntrler

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Yep. I waited a bit longer than most would have. I was about to order the Lisele kit for the broken plug removal. The more I thought about it the more I didn't want to risk having my daily driver down for an extended period while I piddled with it in the garage for the better part of a day if I broke one or eight.



I took it down to my mechanic that I trust and he billed me 1.5 hours for the job. I supplied the plugs and new coil boots (Motorcraft SP514 Plugs and Denso boots). I dropped it off lastnight so that it would be cool in the morning when he could do it.



I waited until noon to give him a call. I was nervous waiting that long not hearing from him, as I figured some broke (But he says they don't break for him, and he s quite familiar with the design) and it's ready to pick up. Not one broken.



I asked him the secret that he uses to get them out. No backing off/soaking or anything here. After he tore something in his shoulder a few years ago getting some out of an F150 a mechanic bud told him that he needs to use an impact on it. Says he hasn't broken one since. I have seen the YouTube videos showing this method and was kind of scared to see it done to mine. Glad I didn't ask how he did it before, as I may have said no. I just asked if he was familiar with them and if he had the broken plug removal tool.



Starts/idles and runs smoother now than it has in a while. The gaps were pretty extreme on a few of them, but the ignition system we've got seems to be good enough to overcome that.





:banana:





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Nicely done! :supercool: I guess living in Cali has a FEW benefits.



Ground electrode shields appear very clean. How many miles?
 
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Yeah, I thought about doing mine but decided my BS threshold is too low anymore. I took it to the dealer and had a couple other service items done and was happy with the results. Truck runs much better and the dealer broke no plugs at all. If I had done it. mine would have broken. I'm happy that the crappy 2 piece plugs are no longer an issue. I still think FORD should have done it for free since it was a bad decision on their part IMO!
 
Ground electrode shields appear very clean. How many miles?



104,200 miles on the way home from the shop. All but the 21 miles that were on it at delivery back in late July 2006 are mine. Synthetic oil changes at religious intervals, and never running crappy gas. Only gas that is considered "top tier" gets pumped in.



I'm happy that the crappy 2 piece plugs are no longer an issue.



By no longer an issue, do you mean with the head redesign in mid 2008? The plugs for replacement in the 3v that had this design are still 2pc. I think Champion makes a 1pc but my research on here says that they weren't that great of a replacement. One other company makes a 1pc, but I think it was for racing applications and (Brisk maybe is the brand?) they were not of a good temperature range for a daily driver/longevity type application. The TSB calls for the plug shaft to be coated in high temp Anti-Sieze though so hopefully the next time they come out won't be an issue.
 
By no longer an issue, do you mean with the head redesign in mid 2008?



Glad they changed the head design in 2008 for other folks but I was told the replacement plugs the FORD dealer put in were either Autolite or Motorcraft 1 piece plugs
 
So if I were to be doing a plug replacement by myself what tools and materials (like anti seize) would you guys recommend I have?



This isn't an issue for you with the V6. I think you've got standard regular 1pc plugs. If you look at the picture of my plugs posted above:



The bottom portion of the plug (past the threaded part) slides down into the head in a hole roughly the same diameter as the non threaded part. Over time carbon builds up around that part making it a tight fit between the plug and the aluminum of the head. Compounding things further, that non threaded portion of the spark plug is prone to breaking when torque is applied to remove them. this now leaves the broken portion deep down inside of the cylinder head. There are companies that have designed a tool to remove the broken part (Costs about $60 for the tool).



Below is a link to the tool on Amazon. There are some good shots of a cut-away head there showing it in action, as well as a video showing how it works.



In your case though with the V6: Just do the job when the engine is cool. Use a properly sized spark plug wrench (has a rubber insert inside of it to protect the ceramic) and torque the new plugs down tot he proper setting. Also I don't think anti-sieze is recommended for use ont eh threaded portion of spark plugs. Yes, for the 3V V8 plugs it is used, but still not on the threads or the ground strap.



 
So if I were to be doing a plug replacement by myself what tools and materials (like anti seize) would you guys recommend I have?



Spark Plug socket



Ratchet



6" or greater extension



Make sure the plugs are gapped to recommended gap (Not for the High Thread plugs that are not gappable such as the ones for the 3v V8 engines)



DiElectric Grease to put on the ends of the plug wires/coil boots



Torque Wrench to make sure the plugs are set in at the correct torque.
 
I've been looking around and I'm reading a lot and two piece plugs breaking. How would I know if mine are two piece or not? What is the tool to remove a broken plug called?
 
Hal suggested the same thing a few years ago. An impact wrench will pull them and they don't break. It freaks me out to try that.





Tom
 
Dlkjr18



I've been looking around and I'm reading a lot and two piece plugs breaking. How would I know if mine are two piece or not?

Only applies to 2007 and early 2008 V8 engines. For your 2008 V6, use OEM Motorcraft or Autolite plugs for best results.
 
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I completely concur with Steve. I thought I would be smart so I changed to the expensive, one piece design Champion plugs for my previous 07 V8. For two weeks I chased random misfires codes until I installed the OEM Motorcraft plugs and all the trouble immediately disappeared!



Go figure......
 
Thanks swshawaii. That might be the first time I have been happy that I got the V6 instead of the V8. Being a guy I always want more power envelope if I don't need it. Haha
 
MSD is now making a one-piece replacement plug as well. I might try those next time but it will be awhile. Maybe never if Ford ever gets their heads out of their butts and brings the T6 Ranger here. I also tried the Champions and gave up after about 2k miles. They were fine until I tried towing my utility trailer. Under somewhat heavier load two of them started misfiring. I went back to the OEM Motorcraft two-piece plugs with the recommended anti-seize on the shoulder. That was about a year and a half ago. I have also since switched to Accel coils. Truck runs great. Knock on wood. :grin:
 
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I used the Champion plugs in out Mountaineer. It never felt right with those plugs. I can't say exactly what didn't feel right, but something did not feel right with those plugs. Replaced with Motorcraft and it felt better. A few weeks ago, the CEL came one. Left converter bad. Don't know if it was caused by the plugs or not.



I have this deep down feeling it was, but I can't say for sure.





Tom
 
So my 2008 needs new spark plugs. How can I tell if mine has the later model heads? Door says mfg date of 02/08. I am guessing I am out of luck. :)

 
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Took it in to a local shop. It was actually the coil. But I had them replace the spark plugs anyways. Either I was lucky or they had problems and didn't tell me. Still not cheap, they used original ford spark plugs at something like 20 bucks each!



Truck is running nice.
 
Recently had mine replaced at the local Ford dealer, along with 2 coils. He too used the impact driver method, broke one plug, charged extra 1/2 hr labor. It had a misfire, that only showed up after it had been driven for at least 30 minutes. So we took a drive with his computer and he could show me where and when the misfires occurred.

It's all good now. 93k
 

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