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Thread in 'Help Forum' started by Thedude7979, Sep 20, 2019.
Where did everyone go???
Help with what??
I had had some concerns about my speedometer, losing the dome lights and smelling an electrical smell. I completely tore apart my dash today. Replaced a 7 1/2 amp fuse with a 10 amp fuse, (number 25), and everything’s working I don’t know what I did to fix it LOL ...
My best guess is something in that circuit is pulling more amps than normal. Therefore your repair is temporary using the 10amp fuse. This something that might be hard to find. You might start smelling the electrical smell again. It could be something electronic failing. Could be a wire bleeding thru a poor insulation. Could be a small amount of corosion on a plug or jack. I hate these types of problems.
From my own experiance. I couldnt find out why my tail lights on a '78 dodge van would blow its fuse. It turned out when I used the cig lighter, it was the same circuit, so it poped the fuse. I threw the lighter away and blocked the hole. Then My '94 Mustang kept blowing the fuse to the ECU, and shut the engine off. The fix turned out to be. Thin insulation on the power wire, to the throttle position sensor, touching ground. A factory defect that took years to show up. Now on my '04 Trac I cant use the cig lighter for a power point. It blows the fuse that feeds the power to the OBD2 connecter. Cant read codes from the port. So I blocked off that power port. The one on the console is on its own circuit.
Did I say I hate chasing circuit problems...LOL
Yeah not real fun I appreciate your help, I just got this thing running like I wanted to. And now I think everything‘s lubed up good and proper, and now I have a pretty significant oil leak and I’m praying to God it’s not the rear main. I think it might just be the pan gasket. Anyway I pray to God it is LOL. But I can get it on the highway this thing does 80 and the air blows cold. Like I said previously this thing sat for over 2 1/2 years I’m surprise I don’t have more leaks, and then I get under the thing and all of the body mount bushings are gone. Don’t know if I can replace those in the driveway with the precisely placed Jack and some new bushings.
The cab bushing job, I purchased a poly kit. Paid my body man $250 to do the job. Todd and a few others did the job themselves. He might be able to give you the how to. You might do a search. He did do a write up, when he had a Gen1 Trac. That was on the old website though. Not sure if it made the transfer.
My body man said, he had to strap my frame down on his frame machine. So he could jack the cab up. He said, this was the first and last Trac he would do...LOL. It sucks that the factory bushings are made from some sort of soft sponge like material.
This fella makes it sound and look way too easy .....
He didnt' say how long it took. Or if he had any problems, lifting the cab from the frame. That is the same brand I purchased
At my age I gladly paid my body man. He said It was a PTA. He has done 4 door cab bushings in the past. That is how he came up with the labor cost. He couldnt' believe how rotten the factory bushings were. Because of the design of the mounts. That is why he said, never another Trac. After a few days the bushings settled. He had to re-torque the bolts.
Also the bushings on mine @ point A, were rubber and in good shape. So B,C and D locations were all I needed.
It does make the ride a little harder, but. It is not a problem for me. I have been use to it since I put the rancho shocks on it @ 1500 miles. Plus I have Hellwigs traction helper leafs on the rear. They only stop the wheel hop, on dry pavement, not wet. I have a tuner and perfomance bolt on.
when the guy did mine, he did not lift the cab. He put the mounts in one at a time. The C one (drivers side rear seat) did not fit well. I had to cut an old rubber one in half and add it to the new one for a tight fit!
Ed, the cab has to be lifted a small amount. Im not understanding how he did them one at a time. I would think you would have to at least unbolt and lift one side at a time for remove and install.
My body man said, even with all the bolts out. My cab was stuck to the frame. That is why he straped my frame down, the used a jack to lift the cab off of the old. His frame machine platform is like the ones in muffler shops. So he was also able to lift the Trac to working height.
Yeah my driver side B bushing, reared its ugly head last night made me nervous I thought it was something in the suspension LOL. Hey what are y’all think about a bad PCV valve causing high crank case pressure and causing my oil leak? Is that out of the realm of possibility?
It can happen if the valve is sticking, or the line is blocked. If you are talking about the oil pan leak. Most likely from gasket shrink. From sitting so long or age. I have a small oil pan leak from age. This is the flat pan on the bottom. The upper part of the pan is a block girdle with a crankshaft wndage tray. You might want to do a compresion check. You may have ring blow-by.
Hi, There is a known problem with the instrument clusters causing all sorts of electrical issues. The symptom is one or more gauges not functioning properly, or at all. Ford engineers ran a lot of electrical circuits through the dash. So a faulty one can cause some wonky problems. If you want to make sure it is the cluster and not speed sensor on the rear differential, you can use a scan tool, if it reads the speed it's the cluster. If it can't read the speed then it's the sensor, which is a cheap fix and shouldn't take more than a half-hour of your time.
There are several shops that specialize in fixing a gauge cluster. Prices range anywhere from $88 - $160. You do have to send your cluster to them, so you're probably looking at some downtime.
Of course, you can Google it, but here are a number of repair services offered on Ebay.
The other option which I wouldn't recommend is buying a cluster from a salvage parts company. That'll cost you less than getting it fixed, but then you never know how long the used part might last.
As far as the body bushings, this is a great YouTube video on the topic.
I did mine a couple of years ago. The forward and rear sets are usually good, they're made of a harder material and seem to last. It's the middle two that are the problem. I think it took me 2-3 hours to do it and cost me about $90 for the parts. It really isn't a hard job, and I was working slow. I could probably do it in under an hour if I had to. You can do the repair.
I replaced mine 3yrs ago. Mine were blac poly. I found it hard to imagine what the factory bushings were made of. What were they thineing.
I actualy lice the stifness of the cab now.
The new bushings do make a difference in ride. One of the best investments (best bang for your buck) a driveway mechanic can make in the quality of his/her car is replacing worn suspension bushings, and then taking it in for a proper alignment. The car or truck will ride and feel like new again.
It doesn't require a lot of skill or tools either. After a decade most used cars start to feel really used because owners defer replacing worn suspension components.