Hello All - I have heard about front swaybar link replacement many times, and have replaced them on a number of our vehicles. Do the rears ever need replacing? I am noticing a knocking sound from the rear of my 2002 Sport Trac 4WD. If replaced, would you go for Moog, Motorcraft, or ?
Inspect the rear end link bushings for wear or looseness. If worn, the frame bushings are probably also due. Here's an excellent polyurethane repair kit that includes stock diameter frame bushings. https://www.suspension.com/4.5153 https://www.suspension.com/blog/how-to-burn-out-suspension-bushings-the-right-way/
If you prefer to replace the complete end links Moog's K80788 uses solid end link rods vs. OE Ford's hollow. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...6,1385355,suspension,stabilizer+bar+link,7580
I prefer energy suspension polys' The moog bushings crumbled on me. Their hardware is decent. The motorcraft oem front end links are weird and have too small of a bolt. Steve, the rear end links you sent. Do they use the same bushing kit as OEM? Soon I will need to rebuild. The oem rubber is wearing out. I will go with poly. The EE bar centers are still good. My OEM front bar centers are still good. They sqeek when cold though. Front end links are moog hardware and black ESP bushings.
Eddie, the ES flange bushings are a perfect fit. Question is the length of the supplied inner metal sleeves. If you still have the stock rear end links that you removed, compare the width to your Moog's. "Should" be the same. I was involved in an EF thread where the OP could not find larger 1-1/8" EE sway bar frame bushings and had the ES 4.5153 frame bushings drilled to fit. I'll find that thread and link when I find it. How's your white HVAC panel overlay going?
Wasn't an EE bar. Put the bushing in the bracket and bolt it down to keep the bushing from moving and deforming when drilling. https://www.explorerforum.com/forum...bushings-19mm-23mm.476011/page-2#post-3733604
Steve, My EE frame bushings are good. I will have to dig in my junk for the oem links for measurement. I havent applied the HVAC overlay yet. I got started in completing a rifle build as parts came in. Plus I have been tinkering with some wheel mods. On the '63 galaxie diecast. The one difference from the model and my car, is. I had chrome reverse wheels not hub caps. Found what I needed from a model shop. I have to do some modification for fitmaent. I guess Im partial to this one, since it is the exact replica of my first car. One other diference was I removed the gold fender flags. Replaced them with silver 390 flags. My R-Code sleeper. Even the color helped...LOL My apologies to the OP.... .
Very possible the OP won't return to this thread. Your '63 Galaxie model is amazing. I thought it was an actual car at first. DON'T search for your old end links, I think I know exactly where mine are. I'll find and measure them for you manana.
Thanks, I was amazed that I came across this die cast by accident. The R-code motor detail and color, also that it is Galaxie XL 500. It even has a Texas liscene plate. Yesterday I found a set of chrome reverse wheel with the baby moon hub caps on ebay. So I will be able to make it exactly like my first car. I have about 90 die cast cars. Wide variety of brands and years, 50's to 90's. Also 15 diferent Harleys. Shelving takes up 2 walls of my computer and hobby room. I supose Im a 68 yr old Kid...LOL
Eddie, stock tube width is 15/16" without bushings. Misplaced my caliper so I used a 15/16" open end wrench to measure. Regarding the ES 4.5153 kit frame bushings. I only mentioned drilling for future reference. Explorer Express is long gone, and replacement frame bushings for their 1-1/8" rear sway bar are nowhere to be found. Problem is the stock rear brackets are very low profile at about 1-1/2 inches tall, and these are the only poly frame bushings I've seen that fit with the stock brackets.
