Horn Relay Socket issue

[Jacob V]

So I just got a 2001 ST on Tuesday 9/8 and I noticed that CC switches didn't work, I saw on here that it was a common issue and my buttons themselves were "old and faded" anyways, so I replaced them this morning only to find out that my Horn didn't work before I even started the project. I looked under the hood and noticed the relay was missing, but I went on and replaced the CC switches anyways.



Then I went to my dads explorer and pulled out his horn relay ( I looked them up and they are the same part number for a lot of theses relays) and placed it it to the socket in my truck and I noticed there was no "tension" to put the relay in it just fell right in, and I hit the panic alarm on my remote and I can hear clicking and my lights were flashing, but no horn.



So I think there's and issue with the relay socket? Or do I not have the right horn relay? I used RockAuto to see if the relay was the same form and 02 explorer to an 01 ST and they list of vehicles the horn relay works for is quite large! Link below... Anyone else have a similar issue? Not sure what to do? Don't want to take it into the shop after only owning it for less than a week



Thanks in advance! Jake

 

[Mark K 2]

Go to your local parts store and get a Standard Motor Products RY612T (or equivalent). You need one anyway. It should cost about $10. Then, with the relay in the socket, hit your panic alarm and twist the relay back and forth gently for ten seconds. Hopefully, it'll make contact that way and you'll know the socket is bad. That's where to start.

 

[Dan Long]

I'd be very surprised if all 4 or 5 of the contacts for the relay were sloppy enough to let it just drop into place with no tension. It almost sounds as if there's no clips in that relay location. You should be able to shine a light into the slots and see the metal tabs on each side that make the connections to the relay. Before spending any money check and see if they're even there.



If you're comfortable with it, you can disconnect your battery, remove the entire fuse/relay box from it's bracket and unclip the back plastic shell and look at the wiring where that relay should be to see if it's there or not. If it is, and the contacts are indeed that sloppy, you should be able to release the wires one by one, crimp them back together and reinsert them.

 

[Todd Z]

you can use the other relays under the hood to test, Most are the same



Todd Z

 

[Jacob V]

Okay I used the Relay that was in socket 56A (which is for the A/C) and put it into 56B (Horn) and like I said there was no tension and it just falls right into place, when I hit the Alarm button, I can hear a "click click click" noise that would go along with the horn if it were to actually work. Can I push on the relay and wiggle it around while its clicking? I'll try to get a video or some pictures of what it looks like tonight.

 

[Jacob V]

Well I found my issue, there's not metal socket it there.. how does this happen? What do I have to do to fix it? Thanks for again for any and all help!



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[EddieS'04]

It must have came loose from the clips. You will have to remove the power control box. The hard part is seperating the 2 halfs. I did it once to rewire my fogs, to run with the brights.



unless some one can come up with the correct wires in the loom and have a relay external to the box. If I get a chance tomorrow. I will scan my ford wiring manual for you.



There can be other ways to have an external relay. You will have to know what is the trigger wire from the column, and run your own hot + wire. Then wires to your horn.



The old way would to install another horn button on the dash or column. But that is tackky looking.

 

[Jacob V]

Okay I appreciate the help, Eddie!

 

[Mark K 2]

That socket SHOULD NOT have a connector in it. I just looked it up in the wiring book. I'm starting to think your horns are toast. Use a test light or meter to test for voltage at the horns plug ON THE HORN with the panic alarm operating.

 

[Jacob V]

Okay, I will try that tonight.



Whats weird is my owners manual says that, that is socket 56B which is for the horn relay? hmm...



So an update on the issue is. my horn doesn't work, panic alarm doesn't work, but the lights flash, and the Cruise Control doesn't work.

 

[Mark K 2]

I'm pretty sure your cruise problem is a pressure switch on the master cylinder. That's what 90% of cruise control issues end up being.

 

[Todd Z]

THE cover and description on the ST is backwards....... The numbering is screwy....Make sure your looking at the right location. But I would not doubt the horns are shot.



Todd Z

 

[Jacob V]

Well I tested the pressure switch on the mater cylinder. Without the wiring schematic I don't know when I am not or/and when I am supposed to have continuity, soo....



When the truck is off, I tested the switch and it had continuity, When I started the truck it still had continuity. When I put my foot on the brake, it still had continuity. Also the switch does have power going to it. Is this switch faulty?



I tested the CC on my way to school the morning and still nothing. Not even the CC light on the dash shows up at all.



My thinking is the CC should realistically work based on the continuity test, It just wouldn't be able to turn it off by pressing on the brakes. Assuming this switch is Normally Closed and pressing on the brake opens it, thus disabling the CC.



If my horns are fried, then why doesn't my CC work?



My guess now is that I'm looking at the wrong horn relay?



Thanks again for everyone's help, I really appreciate it!

 

[Mark K 2]

If my horns are fried, then why doesn't my CC work?

Two separate issues.

 

[EddieS'04]

Yhr CC switch is continously closed. That is what caused all the fires, a few years ago. It should open with the brake depressed though. Might be your steering wheel switches or the controll unit itself.