Driveshaft leaks

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FlipTrac_511

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A few weeks ago I mentioned the leak I had found at the front end of the driveshaft. Recently I discovered that there is also a leak at the rear end. What needs fixing on the rear end? Is it a DIY? Also, what size/type wrench do I need to remove the bolts on the rear flange? Must the truck be in neutral gear? Thanks!

(FYI: Few years ago I replaced the rear diff cover with a Trickflow one and used Royal Purple oil and Ford Friction modifier)



Front:

[Broken External Image]:



Rear:

[Broken External Image]:
 
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The front is easy. Have in nuetral, as to rotate sheft for rear flange bolts. mark the position of the flange.

From what I see I would wait till the rear leak on the ground. I have seen the rear seep like that for years, before a seal was needed. Your not loosing that much fluid as I see.

 
the bolts that hold the drive shaft to the rear hub are 12mm 12point..you need a impact socket and a good impact, if they have never been out you may need a bit of heat they have factory applied lock tight..:banana:
 
...you need a impact socket and a good impact, if they have never been out you may need a bit of heat they have factory applied lock tight..
Click to expand...



Shite. Don't have one of those.



Thanks for the info guys.
 
and lastly...I haven't watched this one yet but this guy usually knows his stuff. He has a great "how to" on instrument cluster bulbs and shift indicator repair for explorers that helped me out.
 
Thanks for the vids markaprice73.



Another question. Are new bolts critical after removing them from the rear or can I use the original ones again?
 
Its recommended to use a new pinion nut. I would. Its just a few bucks. I believe they come with some sort of red loctite on them. if not, use red loctite. You do not want this coming off.

idk about the bolts.(or proper torque) They reused the bolts on the drive shaft when I had my diff rebuilt. Like roamer said, if they have lock tight on them, I would clean up your bolts and use some lock tight on them.

Also, there is another technique(i believe most recommended) to remove and re-install the pinion nut. You use a beam type inch pound torque wrench on the nut to measure the torque it takes to spin the flange.(i think with the drive shaft off) Then, you tighten the nut back to the same torque it takes to spin it originally. Some say +5 more #'s ft. idk man, I've heard the crush sleeve can be a pretty touchy thing. Too much torque and the pinion bearing will wear out fast. Too little is bad also. I would research this a little more. I do not own the official workshop manual yet.(maybe next week for my bday) idk if its in my Haynes or not. I will check tomorrow.

Seems like a simple thing to replace a seal. But, unfortunately i don't think it is.
 
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i saw this on rockauto.com...DORMAN Part # 697507. less than $20. It comes with pinion nut, seal, AND Drive Shaft Pinion Yoke! I have read that the yolk may be worn and can cause the leak as well.

..I did a little reading(cant sleep) a lot of folks/pros have just done it the way in the videos and its fine. I just wanted to mention the other way as well as i think it would be more accurate. Maybe do both.

Basically I believe its a risky thing and a kind of a "feel" thing You have to run the risk of the pre-load on the crush sleeve not being back to perfect specs. The only way to properly do this is rip apart the rear end and install a new crush sleeve and torque the pinion nut to spec(its a lot/a couple hundred #'s ft) to get the proper crush on the crush sleeve.

Now with all that being said..I don't mean or want to scare anyone off of doing repairs themselves. I just want you to be aware of the possibility of messing up you rear end and having to do more work. I had to get my rear diff rebuilt recently and cost me a lot of money. I was about to attempt it myself. Time/tools and experience got in the way of that one.

Maybe like Eddie said. If its not leaking too bad, just keep checking the gear oil level and see how much your losing. Then just refill every month or whenever to keep it full.

 
this video is with a new crush sleeve. But near the end you can see what I was referring to about the beam style torque wrench check(i think his is a dial style but same deal). check out FordVic99's question about 6 comments down. The man from the video replies with an answer.
 
The thing about checking bearing preload is that the axles are supposed to be out when doing it or you don't end up with a true reading and an incorrect reading is just as bad as no reading. What I have done over the years is to count the number of threads showing on the front side of the nut and put the nut back on until you reach that number. I have NEVER had a failure doing it this way. Another method is to just tighten the nut until all the play is gone, I've never had issues this way either.
 
Just an update:

I couldn't get the bolts off by hand and I don't have an impact wrench so I had to take this one in to a shop. Dealership was booked up 'til next week (recalls?) but I wanted to get this taken care of before some upcoming family trips so I ended up going to an independent shop that I go to for little things. They did it for $94 so I was happy with that (dealership quoted at least $200). I already had the Ford seal and some MerconV handy since I thought this was going to be a DIY.
 

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