DMH E-Cutout w/ Dynomax 88340 Exhaust Dump

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Carey Frennier

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Am I correct in assuming that if I place a cutout before the cats on my 08 STA I will trip a ton of emissions codes?



Would I really gain that much power if I placed the cutout before my muffler? I already removed the stock resonator and muffler and installed a Magnaflow muffler and a straight intermediate pipe.



I was thinking, since it's a straight through design anyway, basically I'd only gain a louder exhaust note...?
 
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So basically I'm going to call this a useless mod in my setup.



I've also read that it can damage your low end TQ. It seems more complicated than simply reducing back pressure. The last thing I want to do is lose TQ on the low end. That's where this truck needs all it can get.



I've also read that they sound like crap on modern engines with normal cams.



Any comments? (elbows Dingo)
 
I have one on my truck. ;)

It won't hurt your torque any more than the Magnaflow did. I just use it to play with imports at red lights mostly.



Yes, however, to anyone with a muffler that's not a straight through design, it'd be a great improvement.

 
Running strait thru magnflow, the cut out will gain nothing but noise. You might see a couple HP at WOT on the dyno. I wouldnt do it.
 
The more I learn about this electronic cutout the less appealing it is. If I had the stock exhaust I would probably buy one but my system is pretty wide open as it is.
 
Alright, So I'm going to play around with one of these Electric exhaust cutouts. We will probably put one on both of our vehicles.



One of the things I've read about is that people constantly over torque the motor by holding/leaving the toggle switch on the open setting. This extra stress significantly damages the motor assembly on the electronic cutout. Its the number one cause of failure among all electronic cutouts. Second would be the exposure to the elements.



There is a $100+ switch/controller out there that's made to open the valve and stop at the precisely 100% open without over torque on the unit. Thus, prolonging its life.

http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/Controller/index.php



I've got to believe that there is a better way to do this without spending $100 or even $50. I just want something that I can set to open for X amount of seconds and then it will automatically cut power for both opening and closing.



Anyone have any ideas?

 
So once I flip the switch to "open" I don't have to flip it back to "neutral" so that it doesn't continue to torque? The transmission will automatically reduce torque or something?



 
Just hold it a few seconds to open and then let go. Hold it another few to close and let go.
 
That's the way every single electric cutout operates. QTP makes a that controller that does what I want but it's stupid expensive.



There has a to be a switch out there that will do the same.
 
Hopefully, this helps:



<img src="http://www.mysporttrac.com/~library/22354/Cutout/100_0243%20(Small).JPG">



<img src="http://www.mysporttrac.com/~library/22354/Cutout/100_0244%20(Small).JPG">



<img src="http://www.mysporttrac.com/~library/22354/Cutout/100_0245%20(Small).JPG">
 
I just mounted the switch between the audio input and the cigarette lighter plug.



I don't have anything here to get a sound clip with, but it seals fine.
 
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