brake question

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Gerald Pierce

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Still chasing the vibration in the truck, I am going to replace wheel bearings Monday or Tuesday (depends on work schedule). I intend to buy new rotors/hubs, brake pads, and wheel bearings (I have one set already) for both sides since the brake pads are getting low, and the rotors have been turned twice. Figured it was easier to do it all at once rather than a little at a time.



Question is, since my manual is in Virginia and I am in FL, what does the nut that holds the rotor/hub get torqued to? I have done trailer bearings dozens of times, always by "feel" (tighten up while rotating the wheel, then back off slightly to align the cotter pin) and have never had an issue, but would like to do this "by the book".



Any tips would be great.
 
Ours did the same thing in August of '04. Just replaced the pads and turned the rotors; good to go and no problems since. Raybestos Quiet Stop ceramic pads, BTW. I am thinking about new pads and rotors in the near future.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Install the brake disc and hub.

Position the brake disc and hub.

Install the outer front wheel bearing.

Install the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer.

Install the spindle nut.



Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the brake disc and hub to 21 lb/ft. (29 Nm)



Loosen the spindle nut 175 degrees...



Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the brake disc and hub to 17 lb/in (2 Nm)



Install the following components:

Install the nut retainer.

Install the cotter pin.

Install the hub grease cap





Tom
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well, replaced the rotors, bearings, and brake pads today, the vibration appears to be gone, FINALLY. Had it up to 85 on 9A here in Jax and couldn't feel it, test will be next weekend when I drive to VA.



Whole truck seems quieter, maybe it is my imagination, but I tend to hear the rrrrr of the tires more now than I used to.

 

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