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SportTrac Discussion
Wheels, Tires & Brakes
Brake Pads and Rotors
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<blockquote data-quote="swshawaii" data-source="post: 1018339" data-attributes="member: 67547"><p>Open the bleeders and push them in by hand. If you don't, all the contaminants are being back flushed through the ABS system and master cylinder. If too difficult by hand, use a thin block of wood with your C-clamp. Should you decide to replace calipers, check out the NAPA Total Eclipse line. Cheap, powder coated, and local with a lifetime warranty. Check the link below to see what remains in the bores AFTER flushing. BTW, my caliper "rebuild" attempt did not help, still had a smoking hot rotor until I replaced them with NAPA semi loaded calipers. TQ pads have molded in shims, brake quiet compound is not recommended or needed. Make sure to use specific silicone brake lube or SylGlyde on the caliper hardware and abutment clips. DO NOT use regular grease or anti seize that will gum up and cause sticking and binding.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="swshawaii, post: 1018339, member: 67547"] Open the bleeders and push them in by hand. If you don't, all the contaminants are being back flushed through the ABS system and master cylinder. If too difficult by hand, use a thin block of wood with your C-clamp. Should you decide to replace calipers, check out the NAPA Total Eclipse line. Cheap, powder coated, and local with a lifetime warranty. Check the link below to see what remains in the bores AFTER flushing. BTW, my caliper "rebuild" attempt did not help, still had a smoking hot rotor until I replaced them with NAPA semi loaded calipers. TQ pads have molded in shims, brake quiet compound is not recommended or needed. Make sure to use specific silicone brake lube or SylGlyde on the caliper hardware and abutment clips. DO NOT use regular grease or anti seize that will gum up and cause sticking and binding. [/QUOTE]
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SportTrac Discussion
Wheels, Tires & Brakes
Brake Pads and Rotors
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