Body mount bushings done!

Ford SportTrac Forum

Help Support Ford SportTrac Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Dan Long

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2007
Messages
1,649
Reaction score
3
Location
Gainesville, FL
I was really dreading this job, but I managed to knock it out in less than 5 hours today! I replaced all 8 of the bushing sets with the Prothane kit, as well as cleaned up all the associated hardware on the wire wheel before re-installing it. If I had to do another one, I'm fairly certain I could do it in about 3 hours.



My B and C bushings were virtually non-existent, the A and D bushings were in perfect shape (they're rubber rather than MCF). I decided that since I was doing the job though that I was going to do it right and replace them all. I also feel like all the mounts should be made of the same material to limit flexing and compression differences. Probably not that big of a deal, but I had paid for a complete set, and Prothane spent the time to design all the bushings, so it seemed counter-intuitive to not use them.



The ride is greatly improved, to say the least. The truck is far more stable and solid, and while the shocks are due for replacement, they don't feel nearly as bad now. The wife and I went to finish up our Christmas shopping tonight and she even noticed that it felt better, and she's only ridden in the truck a few times since I got the motor swap done and started driving it. I haven't heard any squeaking from the mounts, and I hope it stays that way. I can't say that I expect them to squeak, as the way that they're designed and the very little movement that is possible should prevent it.



As for the installation, I sort of said "screw the instructions"... I started on the driver's side, removed all 4 bolts, then used my floor jack and an 18" piece of 2x4 on the floor pan between the B and C mounts to jack up the body a few inches until I could remove all the mount hardware. Once the new mounts were in place, I set the body back down and got all the bolts started but left them about 1/2" out. I then removed all 4 passenger side bolts, jacked up that side the same way, replaced the mounts, then set it back down and installed the bolts. I tightened everything up with my impact wrench, basically just snugged them then gave them a little more. As others have mentioned, a good 1/2" impact wrench and propane torch are DEFINITELY recommended for this job!!



In a few weeks I'll be tearing the entire interior out of the truck for a deep cleaning and to install some of my electronic goodies, and at that point I'll pull all the bolts again, add some Loctite and re-install them with a torque wrench to at least Ford specs, if not 10-15 ft/lbs more. For anyone with deteriorating bushings, I highly recommend the Prothane kit! Everything fit perfectly, and nothing else was needed.
 
Dan,



You will likethe feel over the OEM's. I paid my body shop $250 to install the prothane kit. IMO the trac feels more stable than new.

They did have to go back and rethighten them and loktite. The OEM TQ was not enough for the prothanes. They got loose after a week.

I recomend the kit also. Even if you dont need it yet.....
 
Your truck keeps getting better Dan! Agree, replacing body mounts are not as difficult as some describe, providing the bolts and mounts aren't rusted and frozen. A propane torch applied to each bolt tip from underneath for 30 seconds and a strong impact wrench make this job a snap, even alone. Good idea to remove the blue Loctite with a wire wheel and initially install them clean, as poly bushings will compress and retain memory. Even Prothane recommends bolt removal, applying blue Loctite, and retorquing after 1000 miles.



 
Last edited by a moderator:
re "Even Prothane recommends bolt removal, applying blue Loctite, and retorquing after 1000 miles."



Is there an alternative product that doesn't need this? It sounds like a pain, and an extra expense if you have a shop do it.
 
The seats do not require removal to access the six bolts, only moved to lift the rubber flooring. I used OEM mounts without Loctite

and they haven't required retightening yet. I would have used the Prothane 6116 kit if Hugh didn't give me an unbelievable deal.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I definitely like the feel from what I've experienced thus far, and agree that it feels far more stable.



Aside from maybe the Ford OEM bushings, I think retorquing is going to be recommended on both the Prothane and Daystar, and it's a good idea even if they don't specifically mention it. Removing the bolts will be quite simple at that point, and should only take a few minutes. I didn't use any Loctite on my bolts now, knowing that they'll be coming out again soon, and I also didn't bother re-installing the interior trim panels. Once they've had a chance to settle in for about 2 weeks I'll pull them, apply Loctite, and torque to spec (or a little more), then reinstall everything.
 
"Removing the bolts will be quite simple at that point, and should only take a few minutes"



Does that mean that you don't have to jack up the body? Just peel back the carpet, loosen a bolt that isn't rusty yet, then replace?
 
Exactly. Remove bolts one at a time, Loctite, torque. Done. :supercool:
 
How hard is it to peel pack the plastic carpet? And to put it back the way it was, without looseness?
 
Rubber flooring not glued down or bonded, lifts right up.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You mention it's not hard to remove bolts with a torch/impact, provided it's not rusted/frozen.



Now what if the are rusted or frozen, what would be your recommended action at this point? With how rusty my rockers are, I'm anticipating the worst with rusted bolts. I would like to get all new hardware, if it's not too expensive, if anyone knows where I can find them? And pn's



But I still will need to get the old off. I was thinking if I spray the bolts (top and bottom?) with pb blaster days before and then buy a torch and see if that will make it easier. Any other suggestions? I definately don't want to start this job without new bolts/hardware in fear I won't be able to use the old
 

Latest posts

Top