Body/Frame Bushings

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J

John Zuber

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Mar 12, 2004
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Just realized that my frame/body bushings are shot after hearing some noise. Called my Ford dealership...zero help, and no recall from Ford. Can anyone point out some detailed directions on how to replace these bushings? I did not see a project listed on this forum. Also, I found a set of replacement bushings from a company called Energy Suspension Parts.com ...part 6116 kit...any opinions on this? Any help/advice greatly appreciated. Ford should be ashamed.
 
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Yes, that is the kit you need.



Here's a write up I did on this project. Hope it helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

 
I have that kit in red sitting here new in the box.



I installed the Daystar kit in my 2003.



I would be willing to sell it.



Todd Z
 
Hugh,



Did you notice any sort of thread lock on the bushing bolts? Others have noted that using a torch helps with removal and that the after market kits instruct to re-torque the bolts after some time (1000 miles?), but that the factory-installed bushings do not get re-torqued. This has me thinking that the factory uses thread lock (e.g. LocTite red).
 
Take a look here



Todd Z
 
Todd, after seeing the first reply I called my wife and she ordered the kit for me...otherwise I would take your offer. My bad for both of us.



Hugh (and others)...a few questions...

Removal of the front seat and rear seat not required? What part of the rear seat was unbolted? Any issues under the hood when the body is slightly raised...like steering linkage, brake lines, etc? Can I remove bolts B and C if bolts are still retained (but loose) in positions A and D? I would assume breaking the bolts loose with an impact gun will result in the bolt being completely un-threaded. Trying to understand the issue of having the keep the bolts slightly threaded instead of just removed.

Thanks
 
NP I also can get the kits as we at Zabteck sell them.



Todd Z
 
Removal of the front seat and rear seat not required?
Click to expand...

Correct. Move the front seat forward prior to working in the back.



What part of the rear seat was unbolted?
Click to expand...

The front. This allows the seat bottom to be raised out of the way.



Any issues under the hood when the body is slightly raised...like steering linkage, brake lines, etc?
Click to expand...

None reported. It's raised only enough to remove and replace the bushings.



Can I remove bolts B and C if bolts are still retained (but loose) in positions A and D?
Click to expand...

I think you'd be safe doing this, but I'm not sure there is an advantage in that you can work only on one at a time. The point is to leave the bolts threaded until you are ready to remove and replace the bushing.



I would assume breaking the bolts loose with an impact gun will result in the bolt being completely un-threaded.
Click to expand...

Not if you stop after they are broken loose.



Them's my guesses.
 
Hugh,



Did you notice any sort of thread lock on the bushing bolts? Others have noted that using a torch helps with removal and that the after market kits instruct to re-torque the bolts after some time (1000 miles?), but that the factory-installed bushings do not get re-torqued. This has me thinking that the factory uses thread lock (e.g. LocTite red).
Click to expand...



When I did the body lift, yes there was factory LocTite on there. It is STRONG; I'm sure LocTite would love for people to think it's their product (if it's not, I'm not sure). I put red LocTite on the bolts when I did the body lift and then again when I changed the mounts but it wasn't nearly as difficult to remove as the factory bolts. Then again, I used a torch and impact wrench the second time.



CAUTION! If you have a body lift, do not go by factory torque on these bolts. I won't recommend a number because I am not an engineer, but my body slid a little bit to the driver's side after replacing the mounts. Make sure they are tight, and then check again after 100 miles. That was not a pleasant surprise!



If you don't have a body lift, I can't say that you should or shouldn't tighten more than factory recommendations but I think Eddie had a similar issue without a lift. Maybe he'll chime in.



Hugh (and others)...a few questions...

Removal of the front seat and rear seat not required? What part of the rear seat was unbolted? Any issues under the hood when the body is slightly raised...like steering linkage, brake lines, etc? Can I remove bolts B and C if bolts are still retained (but loose) in positions A and D? I would assume breaking the bolts loose with an impact gun will result in the bolt being completely un-threaded. Trying to understand the issue of having the keep the bolts slightly threaded instead of just removed.

Thanks
Click to expand...



Yardsale answered them mostly the same I would.



For reference to worry about raising it too high, mine was lifted three inches for the body lift and then another inch or so to change the mounts. No worries there.

 
One other quick question....I noticed that bushing "A" has the bolt pointed up, which means that the head of the bolt is at the bottom of the bushing. All other bolts have to be accessed from inside the vehicle. For bushing "A", what arrangement is on the other end of the bolt...a welded in-place nut perhaps, or will that nut spin if not held by pliers? Can heat be applied on the top-side of this bushing to destroy the thread-lock?
 
For bushing "A", what arrangement is on the other end of the bolt...a welded in-place nut perhaps, or will that nut spin if not held by pliers?
Click to expand...



Oh c'mon - you KNOW the answer to this - of course it's gonna spin! They're easy to reach; I'd use a deep socket on a long extension with a wobble on the end.



[Broken External Image]:



Larger image <a href="http://www.mysporttrac.com/~library/10521/Temp/BodyMounts.jpg" target="_blank">here</a>.



[Broken External Image]:



<a href="http://www.mysporttrac.com/~library/10521/Temp/BodyMountInst6-116.pdf" target="_blank">Prothane Instructions.</a>
 
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Yea, when I got home from work and changed clothes, I looked at the front bushing and spotted the top nut from under the hood. All in all, the front bushing looks fairly easy to access. My kit should come tomorrow...plan on doing the passenger side first, Saturday.

:grin:
 
OK, The front is upside down, BUT the top nut comes off then the bolt is threaded into the washer bushing that's in between the frame and body.



The design sucks, There are clips holding them together once the bolts come out.



Its a piss poor design....



ALSO I bought new bolts and all because as you can see in my pics, the bolts were TOAST !!!



Todd Z
 
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Hopefully my bolts will be ok...I'm in Florida and the underside of my ST looks new...except for the middle foam bushings that are falling apart.

Todd, a friend of mine also has an ST (2001 perhaps, but not 100% sure) and she mentioned that her husband recently discovered the bad bushings. I told her about the bushing kit...I provided to her your ST contact link.
 
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I didn't even bother changing the A bushings. The OEM bushings were still perfect so I didn't even bother with them.
 
But you sill had to loosen them in order to install the B,C and D bushings...correct? All have to be loosen in order to perform any changes.
 

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