5r55s Solenoid Pack issue?

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Dan B

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2014
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Location
Seminole, FL
Hey guys, been a long time since I've posted here. Hoping to get a little help on my problems.



So here is the rundown - 2007 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 with almost 124Kmi. I posted here before about a transmission issue which cleared up. This time: while driving home a few weeks ago I took a turn, applied the gas abruptly, felt a thud and noticed my shifting was acting different. At first it felt like the trans was slipping and the shifts weren't really as hard as before. It seemed as if it was a subtle difference but I've been driving this vehicle so long I can just tell something is not quite right. I got home and turned the truck off, turned the key on without starting the engine and went through each gear. The audible, single "click" I used to hear when shifting into D-1-2-3 etc is now very quiet, weak multiple ticks, I almost thought it was the exhaust cooling and making it's usual ticking noise at first. I have been driving the truck since it seems to be shifting through each gear normally, downshifting normally but since this has happened I'm trying to go easy, slow starts at the lights, etc. I am not sure if this is related but yesterday when I pulled into my driveway my engine died! No check engine light on or no codes. It restarted and stumbled quite a bit while idling. Shut it off and restarted 10 minutes later and still stumbled. I poked around a bit and nothing is out of the ordinary. I ordered a new MAF just to be safe and so far today the trip to work was uneventful as far as the running condition.



Anyway, I am suspecting my solenoid pack is dying. Can anyone confirm that their pack clicks one single loud click when they shift from say 1-2 or so on? Any advice etc would be greatly appreciated.



Thanks for your time,

Dan B.

 
Well, I've decided to go ahead and purchase an eBay solenoid pack. Since my transmission seems to still be shifting through all gears I didn't feel it is necessary to blow $$$ on a brand new block. I hope to have it this weekend, I will be able to change out the old one and test to see how bad it actually is. Maybe I'll open up the solenoids and rebuild it as a spare or just toss it on the shelf for another day.



Last night I replaced my MAF with a new one, the old one was incredibly dirty. With the new sensor installed my idle is a little bit higher which makes me worry a little less about stalling out again. I know the original sensor can be cleaned but in my experience a cleaned sensor only lasts a brief time and you end up replacing it anyway.



I will update this post when I replace the solenoid pack.



Cheers,

Dan B.
 
Dan,



I did this on my 2010 and heard nothing, I do get a weird bump every now and then.



DID you try disconnecting the NEG battery cable for an hour or so, hit the brake pedal a few times and re connect- then lite it idle 10-15 min, then let it idle an additional 5, then slowly drive shifting all gears keeping under 3K rpms. that resets everything.



This would have nothing to do with the engine dying though.... when was the last full good tune up??



also you can turn the EPC a 1/4 turn to bump the pressure a tad to help out with shifting...



Good luck keep us posted.



Todd Z
 
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Hey Todd,



The only way I remember hearing this click was having the windows down while driving slowly or with the truck on, engine off and shifting through the gears. Any other circumstances I wouldn't notice the click. Who knows, maybe I'm losing my mind LOL!



A few weeks ago I removed my battery for several hours to charge since it seems to go low after sitting for extended periods of time (winter break) but I didn't hit the brakes a few times. I did take a drive around the neighborhood afterwards and went easy on the truck, it's pretty urban so I couldn't go fast anyway. I can do this the proper way this weekend and see what happens.



Oil and air filter are changed at regular intervals, I use synthetic and still don't have a single leak to my amazement! I just looked at the air filter and it is clean. As stated the MAF was replaced. Plugs have about 20K on them, I ordered new ones along with wires so those will be replaced soon. Fuel filter and solenoid will be changed this weekend as long as they ship the block in time. Only other thing I can think of at this time to replace is the PCV valve, I'll look at the current one to see if it is operating but otherwise I will replace that too soon. No vacuum leaks, hoses all look good. Some wiring damage from changing a leaking thermostat housing but only to the plastic tubing protecting the wire. I couldn't find anything else obvious that would cause issues. Transmission fluid was done in 2014 according to the last time I posted here and I have a ton of new fluid left so it will be great to use this weekend and clear up some shelf space.



Just adding a few more details/time to the stalling issue - when the truck stalled in the drive way, I restarted it right after and it stumbled for about 5 seconds and went to normal idle. During the second restart ten minutes later it stumbled for maybe 10 seconds and straightened out. This was Monday, since then I have had no issues thankfully. I was thinking maybe the solenoid going bad would keep the torque converter locked but that wouldn't make sense as I don't believe it would stumble for only 5-10 seconds and go normal. Aside from a dirty MAF or fuel filter, I also thought maybe my alternator is going and bogging the engine down. It does, after all, have 124K on it and I've seen alternators seize up, but mine seems to be working fine right now-down the road I'll change that too.



I had this truck since 2010 and just paid it off in December. It would be a damn shame to start hating it now, I rely on it daily so the thought of something being wrong is stressful.



Thanks for your reply!



Cheers,

Dan B.
 
I hate to see you throw money at this, I honestly am going to say, just take off the belt and spin the alt by hand, if it spins free, don't waste money and replace it.



It almost seems like the Throttle body is sticking. I would clean that and do the reset procedure.



Also if the truck is off and you shift the truck you will NOT hear any thing. The transmission is almost 100% computer controlled. IT will not shift any thing or click solenoids if the motor is not running.



As for stumbling, It seems like a clogged or dirty fuel filter may be the culprit or fuel pump. BUT the Throttle body is the idle control. I would look at that.



worst case I have modded ones here I would sell for you to install if that's the case.



Hope this helps



ALSO just realized this is a gen2... replace the Fuel pump driver !!!!



Todd Z
 
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Updates: So I had a chance this weekend to do some work on my truck. Before I get into that, Friday after work when I started the ST, it immediately revved up to 2K RPM, never did that before - I sat there and after about 30 seconds it finally calmed down to its usual 600-750 RPMs.



Saturday - removed the throttle body. It was gummy but it didn't seem to be binding or have any irregularities. Cleaned it up, reinstalled. Fuel filter - removed it. Clear fuel coming out the outlet and brown nasty fuel dumped out of the inlet so it was likely clogged up. It was so windy here in Florida the past two days that I did not get the chance to install the solenoid block, I didn't want sand or debris to blow up into it with the pan removed and my garage is full so I'll have to wait for another day.



Upon starting now the truck still revs up to 2000 and takes its time to get lower. Also now it seems to be surging, I'll be at a light and at idle in gear it's 1000, then suddenly it will surge to 1500 and if I'm not holding the brakes hard enough it will lurch forward. While I had the throttle body off I looked for any signs of vacuum leaks, I really can't find anything out of the ordinary. Might try a new TPS and throttle body motor kit.



I can also try a new pressure sensor and driver, they're pretty cheap.

Thanks for the reply guys-



To be continued...



Dan B.
 
Forgot to add I did the ETB reset procedure, jumper +12VDC post to the disconnected - cable. Will try it again this evening, maybe my truck wasn't cooled down enough?



-Dan B.
 
Wanted to update here. New iridium plugs, 8mm wires, new MAF, new fuel filter, cleaned throttle body, fresh synthetic oil since it was time to change. I disconnected the battery and left it like that for hours, jumped the +12VDC to the disconnected negative cable. The engine hasn't shut off on me since that one time so that is good - it still revs high on cold starts and stumbles a little during idle but I can deal with that. I'll likely replace the FP Driver as a precaution. I did try to replace the solenoid pack but the "new" replacement ended up leaving me without reverse and slipping out of gear around 30MPH after a quick test drive. I then reinstalled the old pack, new fluid (twice, after two showers in trans fluid messing with the damn pack). There was plenty of nasty black gummy material on the magnet. The fluid was darker and smelled a little burned. There was no metal / brass shavings.



It's shifting, it is running - I'm going to leave it alone for now until the next issue pops up.
 
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