What did you do to your Sport Trac today?

Chris TosteJr said:

Took it easy today. Replaced the alternator and the battery cable post connector (neg side) which seems to have resolved my speedo bouncing around at idle, and my overhead (temp, compass) resetting when rolling any windows down.
Tommorow should be another easy day, replacing the center console arm rest and maybe some interior touchup

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I also have a bouncing speedometer at idle (2003 XLT). I'm wondering how the alternator and battery post connector might be involved in fixing that specific issue. I don't have any electrical issues that I know of.

My odometer also advances slowly at idle, at the same rate indicated by the bouncing speedometer.

Could you share any insights on the speedometer issue?
Did you also notice an odometer issue?

parker_lansing said:

I also have a bouncing speedometer at idle (2003 XLT). I'm wondering how the alternator and battery post connector might be involved in fixing that specific issue. I don't have any electrical issues that I know of.

My odometer also advances slowly at idle, at the same rate indicated by the bouncing speedometer.

Could you share any insights on the speedometer issue?
Did you also notice an odometer issue?

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i didn't notice anything about the odometer; i really wasn't driving it much.

For me, it was just a bunch of random power things that led me to replace what i did. The speedometer was bouncing only at idle, but was fine under load/power. Windows were slow to move and the dash board lights dimmed greatly while my overhead temp/compass would blink out and reset. The alternator was still original so it was way past time. i replaced the neg post terminal was because it just didn't seem to make good contact between some corrosion and light rust.

Chris TosteJr said:

i didn't notice anything about the odometer; i really wasn't driving it much.

For me, it was just a bunch of random power things that led me to replace what i did. The speedometer was bouncing only at idle, but was fine under load/power. Windows were slow to move and the dash board lights dimmed greatly while my overhead temp/compass would blink out and reset. The alternator was still original so it was way past time. i replaced the neg post terminal was because it just didn't seem to make good contact between some corrosion and light rust.

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Interesting. My issue only happens at idle as well (the speedometer snaps into place above 5mph). But my negative battery terminal has also been replaced...

2 days ago,

Put in a new thermostat, old one was stuck open. I have heat again! Kinda handy with temperatures well below freezing. Replaced with another failsafe type, better stuck open then closed.

Changed front calipers. Old ones were rattling and loose on the slide pins. Reused pads and rotors, both new just 8000kms ago.

Oil change and coolant flush being done today.

I also did a brake job. Last one was about 18 months ago, with ceramic pads. I don't know if they are just noisy(squauk) or it was something else but I did the full job calipers rotors and traditional pads all around.

DILLARD000 said:

Good maintenance!
Consider renewing the OxSensors also, if not done already.

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By "renewing" do you mean replacing? Or is there some other form of maintenance (i.e. cleaning) that can be done with the O2 sensors?

parker_lansing said:

By "renewing" do you mean replacing? Or is there some other form of maintenance (i.e. cleaning) that can be done with the O2 sensors?

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New OxSensors. Can't revive old sensors, as the chemical sensor tip just wears away with time and miles.

What are the indicators of needing new oxygen sensors please?

They become “lazy”, or just stop working. Either one is normally accompanied by a CEL. I have seen a couple fail within specs and never trip a CEL however.

Gas mileage slowly decreases as OxSensors age, excess unburned fuel in exhaust, Cat Cons run hotter.

Had torch leveling kit installed.

Oh, heck yes! I just had this done on my 2003 XLT 4WD a few weeks ago.

What year Sport Trac? 2WD or 4WD?
Did you do any extra prep work like suspension maintenance prior to installing the kit?
Did you run into any problems?
How much lift did you add to the front?
Did you have any trouble getting it even?
Am I asking too many questions?

I had a shop install mine, but they refused to do it until I had brand new springs and new shocks installed (they were right, it was necessary).
Prior to bringing it in I also had new cab mount insulators and replaced any worn parts in the front end.

I have a few lingering questions about mine, posted over on the Explorer Forum. They said they had to use up the full 2" of lift to get it even with the rear and couldn't get it perfectly level from driver side to passenger side (it's close enough that I can't tell by just looking at it).

Thanks Dillard

Not very exciting but recently I was able to pick up manuals in very good condition. I want to learn how to work on my ST myself if possible. There are some minor things that need to be replaced or restored.

IMO, the right and only choice using the factory Ford Workshop Manual and Wiring Diagrams.

Using a Haynes or a Chiltons book helps if you're in a pinch, but doesn't belong in the same pic. LOL

Installed some knock off catalytic convertors as the originals were 20 years old, rattling and extremely noisy from leaks!
Yes knock offs because i only drive it about 5000 miles a year. It sits all summer. Also the mid pipe because the person who owned it years ago hacked ut up really good! New 02 sensors!
Before I could start it while being on the 3rd floor a few houses away windows closed and hear it, not anymore.

Yesterday I replaced a couple of eye sores on my truck.

1. The fuel door was broken and had to be taped in place every time I got gas. Replacing the housing is surprisingly not covered in the Ford Workshop manual. Searching this forum as well as online I couldn't find a step by step explanation. I'm not terribly mechanical but if I stare at something long enough the solution usually presents itself. I create a thread in our forum with a step by step explanation of how I did it. Fuel/Gas filler door housing replacement

2. Both of my visors were just plain ugly. In addition to being dirty, they were torn/cut in places and someone decided stickers was a good way to cover blemishes. I found a pair on eBay of the correct color and it was a very easy swap. I haven't tossed the old ones yet because I may cover them in grey vinyl at some point to see if I like that.

Before and after.

What?! You didn't like the toucans? Nice job.

Finally got off my lazy ass and swapped the front coils. Ride is night and day from the “stock” scale springs.
The rears were done awhile back. Those are QA1, the fronts are Hypercoil(I think). Got a good deal on them, and they are roughly the same spring rate as the QA1’s for the front would be. Ride height came up a tiny bit due to the huge difference in coil length, but still sits nice. Maybe the springs will settle in a tiny bit.

Now to dial in this suspension to get the truck to 60ft, somewhat decently

Also, it sure is nice to be able to pull the struts without having to take off upper control arms