Engine light won't go out

2003 Sport Trac, 2WD. I've spent hundreds, nay, thousands of dollars trying to find out why the engine light won't go out. I've replace the O2 sensors four times or five times, new plugs, new wires, virtually everything but the name on the title and the longest the light has stayed out is about 10 miles. Most of the time the eng runs OK but the light stays on steady. Periodically the engine light starts flashing, the motor starts missing and overloading, and I pull over and shut it off, wait a min, then restart on go on...sometimes for a few minutes, sometimes for a few months before it happens again. Just had a new intake gasket, O2 sensor, and EGR valve replaced. Supposedly those were causing the issue. Five miles after release from shop...engine light is on again. No one seems to be able to figure out what this shop separation issue with my little ol' truck wannabe. It's like it craves mechanics fondling its oily bits!!! Is my engine a perv? Any ideas? :boohoo:

Periodically the engine light starts flashing, the motor starts missing and overloading, and I pull over and shut it off, wait a min, then restart on go on.

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2003 Sport Trac Owners Manual (Page 10)

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/03p27og4e.pdf

If the light is blinking, engine misfire is occurring which could damage your catalytic converter.



Drive in a moderate fashion (avoid heavy acceleration and deceleration) and have your vehicle serviced immediately.

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Also, with a check engine light (CEL) you WILL have a trouble code(s). What number(s) are they?

Agree with swshawaii - need the OBD codes. If you've been using a shop for repairs they should be able to show you what they pulled. Having your own scanner is very useful. There are many choices (search Amazon) but a simple one for $30 or so is adequate. The ones that hook up to phone or tablet (Blue Driver, etc.) via Bluetooth are very handy.

Agree with swshawaii - need the OBD codes. If you've been using a shop for repairs they should be able to show you what they pulled. Having your own scanner is very useful. There are many choices (search Amazon) but a simple one for $30 or so is adequate. The ones that hook up to phone or tablet (Blue Driver, etc.) via Bluetooth are very handy.

If it is missfire there should be stored codes.

Harbor Frieght sells a cheap one for about $35. Make sure it it works with CAN...

CEL won't go out.??? That means that you have not fixed the problem. :smack:



Without the CEL codes,how or why did you just assume it was the O2 Sensor? Also, sometimes there are multiple codes. Go to your local AutoZone store and they will read the codes for you for free and give you a print-out of the likely causes.... Then you will have a place to start.



....Rich

Trouble codes? OP troll? If not, I'll delete this reply. :argue: