Overheating 4.0

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Apats77

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Dec 16, 2019
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Location
Loudoun, VA
With the issues I’ve been having with overheating and misfires etc etc. I’m thinking about going with a used new ranger motor with less miles.

my thought is it would be an updated motor and less miles.

If anyone has done this what issues would I run into?
 
In theory I could take anything that’s needed off the original motor correct? There isn’t anything that would be a hard stop using a ranger motor?


The pool to pick from for ST motors is slim and usually more expensive than even a new ranger lower mile motor
 
The late model engine swap has been done before with a newer low mileage Ranger engine. On the other larger explorer forum you can find others who have done it with great success and no problems.
 
The late model engine swap has been done before with a newer low mileage Ranger engine. On the other larger explorer forum you can find others who have done it with great success and no problems.
Excellent Smithers excellent.....

Now to consult the wife on if it’s worth it or do we drop back and punt.
 
If you are willing to sort it out. Why not go with the 302 push rod V8 from an explorer donor. Get the motor and trans from an early V8 explorer. Get the harness and ecu. It has been done by several members on this site.
The motor has the GT-40 P iron heads. The upper and lower intake is a type of GT-40 distrubution runners and tuned port injectors. It is is a DIS ignition. There are alot of mods and parts out there for this motor. Maybe one of the members that have done it will chime in. Look up Dan Long.
 
4.0 to 4.0 ?? Make sure 8th digit is the same vin, change intake and accessories and all good.
 
Y’all definitely got my head going. Would love to do the 5.0 swap but I have a newborn coming next month. Wouldn’t have the time to do that.

currently we are gunna do some tests to confirm the headgasket is indeed the culprit of air in the coolant and the misfire. Only other possible issue is the tstat housing leaking in air.


Because time and money is the issue I am contemplating pulling the heads and replacing gaskets with the full fel pro kit and having the the heads resurfaced.

I’d like to leave the engine in if possible.

Anyone have input on this and what to add?

like I said money/time is the issue. I’m not sinking 12-1800 into a truck that cost me 2000. I just need about 4-5 more years out of it if minimal use.

daycare/Home Depot/groceries
 
Because time and money is the issue I am contemplating pulling the heads and replacing gaskets with the full fel pro kit and having the the heads resurfaced.

I’d like to leave the engine in if possible.

Cant do it that way. You have chains at the front and rear of the motor, driving the overhead cams. Motor will have to come out for chain alignment. You will need to buy the alighnment kit for chain and cam timing.
Sad that ford didnt' drive both cams from the front.
This would be a good time to replace the chains, tensoners and casettes.
Turning into PTA..:confused:
 
*desk pop*

so I’d be looking at
pulling the engine o_O
Pulling the heads :confused:
Resurface and rebuild :(
Full timing job :mad:
All new gaskets


Might as well toss in a water pump and the aluminum thermostat housing too.

what am I missing?
 
Getting ready to tow it to a shop aka my fathers garage. Noticed this

View media item 233
could that let air in but not coolant out? Seems like it would only let coolant out since it’s pressurized.


Going to be pulling the #4 plug since it’s misfiring. Checking for coolant on plug, spark strength and compression.
 
Towed it to the garage with a tow strap. Had it running in neutral. Usually it doesn’t overheat. It did right as we pulled up. We thought we should check the temp of each hose on the radiator one was 50 (upper) lower was 90. Engine block temp ave was 110 and exhaust right at the manifold was 200. Coolant from the radiator top was barely warm to the touch.
Clearly air bound and/or stat isn’t opening.

just got a vacuum kit to draw out the air and fill coolant again. Will be ordering austekk shortly. Fingers crossed. Might as well cross my damn toes too.


Edit: plug looked perfect and compression in that cylinder was 182
 
Last edited:
Getting ready to tow it to a shop aka my fathers garage. Noticed this

could that let air in but not coolant out? Seems like it would only let coolant out since it’s pressurized.

Your link dont work. It comes up with an error of no permission to view it.
 
If drawing the vacuum on it and refilling the coolant with a new tstat housing and tstat doesn't work then ive read in some other forums it could be the water pump cavitating.
 
you could have a clogged radiator, ALSO the WP could have the veins rotted off of them..... could be a lot of things.... they bleed the air pretty good, level ground, Fill slowly so the T stat check valve can release the air, run it with the rad cap off on level ground until the t stat opens and starts flowing, Top off the radiator and then install cap. slow drive around..... NEXT morning when 100% cold, open the RAD cap and check the level, then adjust the overflow bottle..
 
Since I’m in a holding pattern waiting for parts.

what’s everyone theory on the misfire?

I have spark and the plug is clean (autolite plats less than 1000miles) and the wires are NGK less than 1000 miles.

It’s the OE coil pack and usually after it warms up a bit it starts to run smoother but it has shown to miss even when warm.

my guess is it’s a weak/intermittent spark. But it very well could be fuel injector related.
 
my guess is it’s a weak/intermittent spark.

I just remembered. Years ago I had an intermitent spark on #3. I pulled the plug wire on the coil. For some strange reason I had corrosion in the hole on the metal cantactor. I took my dremel with a straight shaft wire brush, an cleanened. I plug the wire in with some dia electric grease for a sealer. It never happened again..
 
I would
A -- Change Coil
B -- Pressure test coolant system
C -- Compression test motor.

All are cheep and easy and will tell you some great information. Stop throwing parts at it.
 

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