Motocraft oil filter

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Ed Fenwick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
1,028
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Location
Kea'au, HI
What engine do you have?
V6 engine
What year is your Sport Trac?
2002
What Generation is your Sport Trac?
1st Gen Owner
Aloha folks, 'just had the timing chains and associated parts replaced 3k miles ago. The clatter at startup is back. Today I bought a Motorcraft oil filter to see if that will help. I have always used Mobile 1 oil and filters. My question is do you folks think that the Motorcraft filter has a better flowback check valve than the Mobile 1? Also, Ford parts man says the Ford synthetic oil is better than Mobile 1 and is about the same price. The filter is 1/2 the price but that is not as much of a concern than quality.
Thanks guys Merry Christmas Ed
 
If your startup rattle is back after 3000 miles after a complete timing chain rebuild it's very unlikely that the oil filter is the reason. Did you use OEM Ford parts? Were both hydraulic tensioners replaced? Countless reports of aftermarket guides or cassettes failing after a short time including Cloyes and Melling brands. Something else to consider is installing a "pre-oiler" that builds oil pressure before the engine starts. In the meantime I would continue to floor the peddle before starting by cranking the starter to build oil pressure.

NONE OF THIS WILL HELP IF YOU HAVE A BOTCHED TIMING CHAIN JOB OR THE NEW PARTS ARE FAILING.

Motorcraft FL-820S Cutaway Comparison:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-manuals/Oil_Filter_Cutaway_Comparison.pdf

Many use the M1-210 oil filter especially for extended oil change intervals (OCI's) over 5000 miles.

Another very highly regarded filter is the Wix 51372 (NAPA Gold 3172) Amsoil's web site lists them as an alternative to their Ea oil filters. I've been using the MC from day one and recently switched to the NAPA Gold because my local O'Reilly's was out of the MC. BTW, O'Reilly's NOT my store of choice. Great when they were Checker AP years ago in Hawaii. Now O'Reilly's is very overpriced compared to my local NAPA for the same name brand products, and carry mostly house branded garbage. Rant over. LOL

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I always thought the "anti drain back valve" (ADBV) is not essential for engines with vertically mounted oil filters with the threads facing up like the 4.0L SOHC. Not to be confused with the "pressure relief valve" (PRV) that prevents unfiltered or dirty oil to flow back into the engine. On some filters the ADBV and PRV are combined into a single part.
 
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Thanks, SWS, good point about the vertical oil filter. I have used Napa Gold and Wix (same manufacturer) Mobile 1 and now will try Ford but with the revelation that there is no drain back problem, there seems to be nothing to do. I don't understand why after driving 1/2 mile will not build oil pressure and allow clatter the next day but driving 10 miles won't.
I never heard of a pre oiler I will look into that as opposed to the pre cranking.
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I always thought the "anti drain back valve" (ADBV) is not essential for engines with vertically mounted oil filters with the threads facing up like the 4.0L SOHC. Not to be confused with the "pressure relief valve" (PRV) that prevents unfiltered or dirty oil to flow back into the engine. On some filters the ADBV and PRV are combined into a single part.

Steve, IMO you are correct about the ABDV pointing up. What matters is a quality filter with a syn or silicone ADBV, on our 4.0L motors.
Plus any quality filter will have a good PRV. Just dont over tax the millage for the filter you choose.
In my town most of my O' Reilys prices are good, and I get a vet's discount from them. I have shoped around enough, that I dont use AZ much anymore. My pep-boys are high here.
Im having to switch my advance auto battery today. 2yrs an thier AGM. I only got 2yrs on their gold 5yr battery. I complained, so they cancelled that sale on the gold series. Then I spent $50 more and purchased the AGM. 2yrs on it. It will be free replacment, but it sux. I stoped buying AZ batteries because 2yrs was all I got on them also. The last good battery I had was my AZ gold in my 'stang, lasted 8yrs. I use to get at least 4 to 4.5 yrs from the AZ gold. They were the ones that were black with gold letters. I dont think anyone makes good batteries now. Any brand in my area, all batteries on the shelf, say hecho in mexico. qaulity control gone, for profit.
 
Wow Eddie. After you mentioned battery issues, and just out of curiosity found my DieHard AGM Platinum P-2 (Group 65) original invoice to check the date. 12/18/2009. Still cranks strong with no sign of weakening. Knock on wood. LOL. I've NEVER had a battery last longer than 5-6 years in anything I've owned. Bummer is the DieHard Platinum series has been long discontinued and the warranty is long expired anyway. Interesting the Duracell AGM Platinum that Sam's Club carries "looks" very similar to the DieHard Platinum with somewhat lesser specs.
 
Ed, BEFORE installing a pre oiler you must diagnose your intermittent oil pressure problem. Praying you won't find plastic tensioner guide bits clogging the oil pick up tube and passages, but that's what it sounds like. If you're RWD it's pretty easy to drop the pan. 4WD is a little more involved because of frame clearance issues. Good luck, we're hoping the best for you.
 
I run only motorcraft filters.... Maybe the tensioners are failing....
 
OK, stupid me, I can't find any "pre oilers" in the search. I have found some that hold constant oil pressure from a bottle in the side. They all have a timer and a solenoid valve to shut them off after the engine is starts. Why can't it just stay open in the system and become part of the oil passages? The engine oil pressure will refill the bottle and be ready for the next start. Or will it loose pressure like the rest of the system?
 
Ed, "manual" tensioners are another thought, but only if your recently installed plastic timing chain guides are intact and undamaged. Proceed at your own risk.
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/4-0-sohc-timing-noise.473831/page-4

Once again, did you replace both external hydraulic tensioners? Did you use Ford OEM replacement parts? Is the rattle only at start up? If not, click TSB below.

RATTLE NOISE FROM PRIMARY CHAIN DRIVE AREA BETWEEN 2000-3000 RPM - COLD ENGINE OPERATION ONLY - REVISED
 
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Ed, "manual" tensioners are another thought, but only if your recently installed plastic timing chain guides are intact and undamaged. Proceed at your own risk.
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/4-0-sohc-timing-noise.473831/page-4

Once again, did you replace both external hydraulic tensioners? Did you use Ford OEM replacement parts? Is the rattle only at start up? If not, click TSB below.

RATTLE NOISE FROM PRIMARY CHAIN DRIVE AREA BETWEEN 2000-3000 RPM - COLD ENGINE OPERATION ONLY - REVISED

That's a great resource Steve. FYI...Links for TSB didn't work in FireFox. The page loaded but the TSB wasn't shown. I had to switch to internet Explorer (old Windows 7 machine) for it to work. I didn't try on a Windows 10 computer.
 
Aloha, SWS, yes I replaced both tensioners with chains but they were NAPA parts! The clatter is only the next day after a short drive (1mile or so) I don't hear anything after that. Has anyone used the manual tensioners? I am worried about the fit. So far I am leaning toward a pre oiler.
Thanks for your help Ed
 
Not sure who makes the NAPA hydraulic tensioners. Wouldn't be the first time I've heard of faulty aftermarket tensioners after a short time.

Click the link in post #11 for the manual tensioner thread from EF.
 
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